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Page 3 - New parts and some new plans

After long time finaly some new things arrived - here is intake mani from Punto Sporting 1.6ie - it's much better designed then my old 1.3 Uno Tie mani, and what is most important to me - it has rail that holds injectors so I don't have to make custom injector holders - hoooorrrray!!!!

Throttle body butterfly is about same size- cca.45mm, I think that would be enough airflow for me and my small 1116cc engine :-)

This are some other very good news for me - that intake has potentiometer-type TPS already - it's small gizmo between two hands on pic, and it's GM product, unlike Weber or Bosch,which were std on 90% of older Fiat models..

And things are getting even better - intake mani even has small IAC (idle air control valve) integrated near butterfly (on right) - if I ever would need one to stabilize idle engine speed, I don't have to improvise with IAC - great news!

Comparison between old Uno 1.3 Tie manifold (up) and new, Punto sporting 1.6ie manifold (down). Flanges are little different , but bolt pattern is the same and both manifolds fit on 1116cc block without problems.

That old Fiat SOHC blocks have about million interchangeable parts, everything fits everywhere, isn't that great?

 

 

This is close-up on very small standard FPR - it is so small that I am little suspicious... is that little guy gone survive any boost , ha, ha :-)))

Square metal thing with two holes is fuel rail - it is designed so that rail when mounted, holds firmly injectors in their places so that no other method of sealing injectors isn't necessary - that system is standard on 99% of today modern cars, unlike old systems like on my 1.3 Uno manifold that has stupid injector holders for old barb-style Bosch injectors (I think that barb-style injectors were on older LE-jetronic EFI cars).

Side view of the manifold, I've been realy lucky so I've got complete setup: manifold, TPS sensor, IAC valve, fuel pressure regulator with rail, one solenoid, and complete fuel fittings and brackets.

TPS was removed to check resistance between pins and to make new harness for Megasuirt instalation - my modified IAW harness that I will use with MS has older TPS connectors, this TPS has new, smaller connector with rubber seal to keep moisture out .

And now something completely different - before couple of months, I bought some old second-hand Toyo Proxes T1-S tires, dimensions are 195/45/14", so I have to find proper wheels, grooves are slightly worn out, but afterall, that tires would be temporarily mounted and will be used hardly only for burnouts - they will never see hard cornering , I promise :-()

On the left you can see comparison between old Michellin 155/65/13" tire and new Toyo - they should look nice.

P.S.

I know that thread direction on pic is wrong - it's only for comparison...;-)

 

As tire is relatively wide, I will need at least 6J wheels... but my thinking is why not going little wider then that?

On the left pic my cruel plan can be easily visible - I need 2 identical steel wheels to make 1 wider wheel. How you may ask ?

Process goes shortly like this:one wheel will be cut just like one on the picture and from the other I'll cut 2" wide strip and then that strip will be placed between left & right pieces of first wheel - that way I get 8J steel wheel with same distance between suspension parts and center of the wheel as normal 6J wheel. Of course, they must be balanced and checked for possible errors prior to TIG welding.

That complicated job will be done when I finally finish with my bodywork....

That is nice example how widened steel wheel would be looking if everything went OK with the process - they look great and what is imortant to me - much less aggressive then standard alloy wheels - flat black paint gives them invisible, OEM look that I like.

This is my favourite part - how to mount very large Saab intercooler in tiny Yugo chassis?

Not easy, but it can be done, on the left is picture that I made in Adobe Photoshop to see how it should look when everything would be finished - I already cut and rewelded plastic IC tank ends - they are shorter about 10cm on each side.

That and few other minor modifications and that IC will be perfectly mounted inside (though there wouldn't be much space left :-)))

My Sparco sprint bucket seat - don't ask me why it's blue...

And now - little combustion theory - as reliability of turbo engine heavily depends on avoiding detonation, one of the most important things to avoid that scenario is beside lowering compression ratio, shape of combustion chamber. Combustion chamber is science for itself and still there are some mysteries left for scientist to solve...but some things can be done by DIY-ers.

On the left is drawing of piston in TDC, with famous "squish zone".

Squish zone is shortly, thin air gap between top of the piston and flat portion of head deck. A/f mixture in squish zone is pushed toward spark plug when piston approaches TDC and result is better A/f mixing, better combustion and engine less prone to detonation, squish is very important thing to combat detonation.

I am planning some serious combustion chamber mods in future that include squish zone - but I would left that as secret for now...;-)

I played a little with some Excel worksheets for turbo engine calculations- for my 1116cc engine that has 7.6 CR on 1.5 bar (21psi) boost and normal atmospheric conditions, I get results on left pic - 128 HP on flywheel and around 100HP at wheels wouldn't be bad at all...we'll see...

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